We’re riding!

Eight am came a bit too soon this morning, since I was up so late last night dealing with tech issues. Fortunately, today’s ride was relatively short, and the day dawned clear and crisp, so we were relaxed when we joined Jorge and Meredith in the hotel dining room for breakfast. The Casa del Organista is such a nice hotel; I’m really looking forward to staying another night there at the end of our tour.

After breakfast, we finished packing, and loaded up the bikes to head out. I grabbed a shot of Mallory chatting with Meredith while getting prepared on the hotel patio:

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And here’s the view from that same patio, looking east, toward the local church that dates from something like the 14th century!

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We finally got on the bikes at about 10:30. Then, on the first downhill run (probably less than two kilometers into the ride), I heard a ‘bang’ behind me, and then “John!” Mal had blown her front tire. I got out one of our spare tubes and proceeded to replace the blown one. As I put the tire back on the rim, I noticed that the sidewall was quite damaged. I assumed it was from riding on the rim after the tire blew, but when I put the wheel back on the bike, I realized that her brakes were out of alignment. The hot brake shoe had caused the blowout, and damaged the tire in the process! The good news was that I had Ignacio’s number, as well as a cellphone that works on the Spanish cell network! I left him a message, and he called me right back to say he’d meet us at our hotel in Cabuerniga with a new tire and another spare tube. Crisis averted, and on with the first day’s ride!

Did I mention that today was the first crystal-clear day of the year in northern Spain? Man what a day… For those of you who are familiar with our Ireland tour in 2010, I can safely say that today was as much the opposite of the first day of that ride as it could possibly have been.

All day I was struck by the diverse plant life along the road. We were amazed to see beautiful little purple columbines, bluebells, gentians and bachelor buttons, contrasted with stupendous eucalyptus forests and palm trees! Crazy!

After riding maybe five kilometers or so, we came to the top of of a rise, and this is an example of the views we enjoyed:

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Our hotel tonight is in the village of Cabuerniga, which was only 20-25 miles from Santillana. We had a splendid time getting here, stopping along the way for a picnic lunch and enjoying the sights and sounds along the way. Here’s Mal at our lunch stop, followed by an action shot with livestock (a popular theme):

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As we neared Cabuerniga, I got the perfect opportunity to document the spectacular cowbells we’d heard along the way:

The Iron Donkey guidebook recommended that we drop our panniers at the hotel and continue on to the picturesque village of Barcena Mayor. Feeling none the worse for wear, we went for it, and were glad we did. Below, in order, are examples of the centuries-old structures in the village, followed by a shot of the river Saja along the way.

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The best part is that we did more than 40 miles by the time we were done, in under four hours riding time, and we feel tired, but not whipped.

All the while I’ve been writing this, Mallory has been happily writing emails and sending her photos to many of you individually. If it’s not already apparent, we’re having the time of our lives!

Tomorrow’s ride may be the toughest of the trip, but we’re psyched for it (almost 40 miles, with several steep climbs). Stay tuned for the report tomorrow tonight…

Santillana del Mar

Today started a little rough, as I spent probably 45 minutes of frustration trying to figure out why I couldn’t add photos to last night’s post. I finally found that making them much smaller worked, but it doesn’t make sense, because the larger images worked just fine the day before! Grrrr…

[My image upload frustrations from last night and this morning are resolved! I tested another app tonight and discovered the issue existed there as well. That led to the conclusion that it was a server issue, so I emailed my hosting provider, asking if he’d done anything. Amazingly, given the time difference, he emailed back within a half hour (about a half hour ago, and he fixed it! Turns out there’s been a lot of buzz about WP security lately, so he’d ratcheted things down quite a bit. He readjusted the tweaks for me, and now tonight’s post is complete! I’d love to know if any of you saw both the before and after!]

Anyway, the rest of today has been fabulous. Jorge & Meredith rented a car to drive us from Logroño to Santillana del Mar (where we’ll start riding tomorrow), and we enjoyed some nice sightseeing along the way. The highlight was definitely getting our first taste of Gaudi architecture, El Capricho in Comillas. Built between 1883 & 1885, for a wealthy bachelor who died before it was finished (!), it’s now open to the public, and can even be rented for weddings and other events. Known mainly for its whimsical sunflower-themed tile work and fanciful minaret, it is a stunning building:

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My favorite aspect of the interior, not surprisingly, was the unique stained glass panels, featuring a bee playing the guitar and a sparrow playing the piano:

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Comillas is on the northern coast of Spain, and since it had turned into such a beautiful day, we decided to head to the beach. I couldn’t resist this cool red seaweed:

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And here’s a nice one of the rocks and sea:

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We had to meet the guy from Iron Donkey at 6 at our hotel in Santillana, and when we got there we found we were staying at an incredible place, seemingly hundreds of years old, yet in pristine condition. Jorge and Meredith are staying the night as well, so after we gathered our bikes, panniers and other gear, and went over the bike trip itinerary and maps with Ignacio, we headed off for another evening of tapas and other Spanish specialties.

Santillana is also known for its sidra (hard cider), dispensed from these crazy rube goldberg contraptions that have pumps and hoses and squirt the sidra into your glass from about two feet off the table! Check it out:

So here I am, at 12:30 am, madly trying to finish this post so I can get some sleep before we start the ride in the morning. Fortunately, breakfast isn’t even served until 9 am (nothing happens early in Spain), and tomorrow’s ride is a relatively easy 20 miler. It does look like we’ll be doing a lot of climbing (and zooming down the other side) over the next six days. We’re both a little nervous, but overall very excited.

Talk to you from Cabuérniga tomorrow night!