Last day in Reykjavik, then on to Edinburgh

Today dawned cloudy and cool again, but we were fine with that, as our plans for the day just involved exploring Reykjavik some more and doing a little advance prep for when we return in two weeks. (I still can’t quite believe we’re going to be abroad for more than three weeks, but I don’t think I ever want to do it any other way. 😁)


After breakfast, we saw this great representation of three common themes from the visit so far: 1) the ubiquitous corrugated siding found on a large percentage of the residential structures, 2) the surprising amount of graffiti, and 3) the equally common ‘sponsored’ street art. This is a visually dynamic city!


As we walked down to the wharf to confirm our bike rentals for the return trip, we found these spectacular shrubs full of yellow flowers, and some interesting architecture combining vertical walls of foliage, reflecting pools, and ducks! (The shrubs smelled very much like tulips.)

(And notice the church in the background too.)

In a great example of the serendipity that often happens when traveling, we took a wrong turn on the way to the wharf, but it led us to the National Museum of Iceland, which we thoroughly enjoyed, and wouldn’t have stumbled across otherwise. There was a very entertaining exhibition of postcards of Iceland, spanning more than a hundred years, and featuring everything from classic old hand-colored drawings and photos, to modern art and ironic commentary. There was also a fascinating exhibit of a huge variety of relics from the early history of the island. (Which, interestingly, is what the country is called in Icelandic: Island!)

My favorite exhibit was an examination of the remains of a woman, unearthed during road construction in the 1980’s, who lived approximately 1100 year ago! It was incredible to see the ways in which forensic scientists have advanced their field in recent decades. They are now able to say that she was probably born in the UK, and sailed to Iceland at age 5-10, just by being able to identify changes in her diet that are evident in the remains of her teeth. Most incredibly, part of her face was preserved simply by its proximity to a bronze amulet she wore, whose corrosion somehow preserved some of her facial structure. There were even bits of the fabric of her clothing, preserved through the same circumstances. It was really amazing.

I also found a nice piece of leaded glass in a stairwell, so can’t resist sharing:


After confirming the bike rentals, we wandered back towards our car, and of course found a couple beautiful flowers to share. Who knew that columbines are found in so many places around the world?


And Mallory reminded me that these fall into the category of “DYC’s” (Damn yellow composites), much like you birders refer to LBB’s, right?


Here’s one more wild example of the giant murals found all over Reykjavik too:


Of course, the day wouldn’t be complete without a little drama, right? When we pulled of the highway to top off the rental car, it was raining and blowing a gale (the doors were almost impossible to open on the windward side!) I struggled through figuring out how to use the petrol pump, and when I finished, the car wouldn’t start. We tried to roll-start it a couple of times, with the help of a couple locals, but it just woudn’t go. So we called the rental company’s roadside assistance number, and they sent a guy right out. He had a portable charger, and though there we had a couple of tense minutes when it still wouldn’t start, it finally did, and we managed to get to through security and to our gate with plenty of time to spare. Phew!

As I’m finishing up today’s post, we’re flying across the North Sea on our way to Edinburgh. On our way through Keflavik Airport, I found the companion piece to the wonderfully modern leaded-glass piece I posted two days ago:


Until tomorrow!

What a difference a day makes!

Wow, today was about as perfect as one can get on vacation. The weather was about 500% better than yesterday (as you’ll see from the photos), our luggage arrived shortly after we woke up, and our explorations were fabulously successful. On to the photos…


This is a place called Kerið, which is a crater not too far outside of Reykjavik, is part of a popular area called the Golden Circle that encompasses some of Iceland’s most famous landmarks. Kerið is a very obvious ancient volcano caldera.

I also took a “photo sphere” of it on my iPhone, and published it on Google Maps. Here’s the link. I think you’ll have the best results trying to view that on a computer, but I’m not sure.

Next up on our tour of the Golden Circle, was one of Iceland’s most famous waterfalls, Gullfoss:


That photo just doesn’t do Gullfoss justice, so ​​I’m gong to try to upload a video I shot as well, but not tonight! Check back in a day or two to see if I had any luck.

From there, it was on to a popular site to see several geysers, including the original, Geysir, which our English word originates from! Geysir apparently doesn’t send up spouts these days, but another one nearby, Strokkur, did not disappoint:

​​I have some photos from my other camera to share later too…

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Fun, eh?

Near the geysers, there were amazing meadows of blue lupine. We couldn’t resist this:


The next stop was a place known as Þingvellir (Pronounced Thingvelleer), where a prominent tectonic rift, named Almannagjá, is visible between the North American and Eurasian plates. The canyon-like above-ground formations are beautiful:


Amazing how the “golden hour” (every photograpaher’s favorite time of day) last’s for hours and hours this close the Arctic Circle!

We then headed back to Reykjavik for another amazing meal (thanks again for the great recommendations Shane!); this time at a place called Sæmundur Gastropub, where we were lucky enough to see a performance by a Latvian musician who just happened to be playing there tonight! He goes by the name Shipsea, and he was amazing. Check him out!

Okay, well I’ve stayed up way too late posting this (again). Góða nótt!

Reykjavik!

We arrived in Iceland at about 7 am local time this morning, after a fairly tolerable flight. I’m amazed that Delta actually still gives you a free meal on their international flights, and free drinks as well! We didn’t imbibe, however, mostly because we wanted to feel as normal as possible upon arrival. [Of course, if they’d had a decent tequila, it would have been a different story!]


As soon as we saw the art glass piece above, I knew I was going to like this country.

Of course, then we had to have a bit of a hiccup, when we discovered that our bags hadn’t left NYC on the plane with us! Though we still haven’t seen them, they’re supposedly in the country, but fingers crossed that they’ll show up first thing in the morning.

Undeterred, we grabbed our rental car, drove into the city, and started exploring.


One of the first things we found was Hallgrímskirkja church, probably the most prominent landmark in Reykjavik. We got a chance to hear a woman playing the church’s famous organ too.

We were surprised that there wasn’t much stained glass, but the entry doors were spectacular…

…and there was a lot of really interesting street art too…


After finding our lovely little AirBnB, we took a much-needed nap, then went for a late dinner at a restaurant our travel writer friend Shane Mitchell recommended, named simply for its address: Hversigata 12. We started with some tasty craft brews, then sat down to an incredible meal. We started with a lamb carpaccio appetizer, and Mallory had a melt-in-your-mouth cod with kale, while I had a tenderloin with fries and bernaise sauce. It’s now way too late, so I’ll sign off. Tomorrow is supposed to be much nicer than today, so assuming our bags get here, we plan to really start exploring the countryside in earnest. Until tomorrow night, enjoy!