Assisi, day two

Of course, most of you have heard of St. Francis, and that his longer title was St. Francis of Assisi, so you can imagine how much of this city is dedicated to his story and his achievements. We spent most of today (our second night here), exploring, first the Basilica of St Francis, both upper and lower. Photography wasn’t allowed, and there was almost too much to take in, so I was actually glad to not be able to take any photos. Mallory could of course give you much more detail, but suffice it to say that the frescoes in this basilica, dating from the 12-1300’s are among the most revered in the world. The artist, Giotto, has been credited with creating some of the most innovative work ever seen up until then. We were duly impressed with all that we saw.

We then visited the “Bosco di San Francesco”, or St. Francis’s Forest, which involved an almost 5 mile hike, with… you guessed it, a lot of up and downs! Here are some highlights:

View looking down over the forest
Looking down on the forest from above
An old wall, along the trail down to the bottom
An old wall, destroyed and rebuilt many times over the centuries…
An unusual form of retaining structure
Lots of this unusual retaining structure along the way
The Basilica of St. Francis, from his forest below
The Basilica of St. Francis, from his forest below

The forest has belonged to the Franciscans for hundreds of years, but only relatively recently has the Italian Trust taken it over, and put a ton of time and money into not only cleaning it up, but adding features that make it better than ever. One of which is a piece of land art called the Third Paradise, designed and built by a contemporary artist named Michelangelo Pistoletto. More photos!

Olive tree in bloom
Ever wonder what an olive blossom looks like?
Tower overlooking the
Tower overlooking Pistoletto’s “Third Paradise”
View of the Third Paradise from the top of the tower
View of the work from the top of the tower
One of several waterfalls along the way
One of several waterfalls along the way
Another waterfall
Another waterfall (spectacular, eh?)

At the lowest point in the hike, about halfway along all told, sits La Chiese di Santa Croce, part of the beautifully refurbished woodland park, and an old bridge & mill, the latter of which has been turned into a restaurant.

The bridge near the Chiesa and mill
The bridge near the Chiesa and mill
St. Francis's Basilica in the distance beyond the Chiesa
St. Francis’s Basilica in the distance beyond the Chiesa

It turns out it was quite the busy day, as I still have another bit to report on. After climbing back up from the ‘bosco’ (woods), Mallory decided to head back to our room while I headed up to the fortrezza that overlooks Assisi. In this case, it’s called the Rocca Maggiore. I took my bike, but that was pretty much a joke, as the route from the basilica was narrow and full of stairs, and as you’ll see below, just a very narrow gravel path for a long ways…

Just some of the stairs along the way; under another beautiful arch
Just some of the stairs along the way; under another beautiful arch
Gravel path, hard up against an ancient stone wall
Not exactly what I expected to find along the way
Finally, the castle!
Finally, the castle!

Once inside, I was able to get this fun shot of the “Third Paradise” land art we’d visited just an hour or two earlier, from very high above it.

“The Third Paradise” from high above

I’ll close with a couple more, and tomorrow I’ll report on the ride from here to Bevagna (our shortest yet!)

The interior walls of Rocca Maggiore d’Assisi
The interior walls of Rocca Maggiore
Sunset over Assisi’s Temple of Minerva
Another gorgeous sunset, this time over the Temple of Minerva

Montone to Assisi

Tuesday’s ride to Assisi was our longest yet. 😊 34 miles and pretty flat, aside from the compulsory climb to the city at the end.

Assisi is a bigger town than most that we’ve visited, and very touristy. Lots of pilgrims from all over the world, and many people in religious garb as well. But I’m getting ahead of myself! Here are some photos from the ride here:

The fortrezza at Umbertide
Another impressive fortrezza, this one in Umbertide
The mighty Tiber River
The mighty Tiber River
Our favorite kind of road: tree-lined, quiet, and well-paved!
Our favorite kind of road: tree-lined, quiet, and well-paved!
Forested hill, row of pines, field of grain and old church: perfection!
Forested hill, row of pines, field of grain and old church: perfection!

Here are a few more agriculture-related shots, the first is of some folks planting a field, the second is just a nice view of a recently planted field, and the third is an example of these interesting fields of espaliered apple trees we keep seeing…

Workers planting a field
Workers planting a freshly prepared field
Recently planted field
A recently planted field of… ??
Espaliered apple trees

Espaliered apple trees

Then, of course, the inevitable climb…

Assisi coming into view
Assisi comes into view!
An even closer view, with the Basilica dominating the foreground
An even closer view, with the Basilica dominating the foreground
The winding road below town
Captured while huffing & puffing our way to the top

Once we’d gotten settled in our hotel room, we took in some of the sights…

The Temple of Minerva in Assisi
The Temple of Minerva, a Roman-era structure, since converted to a Catholic shrine
Another spectacular gate
Another spectacular gate, in ‘golden hour’ light
Looking down into the valley
It’s so steep in all directions from these towns!
Golden walls, lots of steps, and a bougainvillea
Golden walls, lots of steps, and a bougainvillea
The view from our room after sunset
The view from our room after sunset

Sansepolcro to Montone

Yesterday’s ride was yet another 25+ mile ride with about 1000 ft of elevation gain. It’s starting to feel a bit like Groundhog Day around here, though not really, because each day’s ride is so uniquely great. (Spoiler alert: we’ve got longer rides ahead too!)

Anyway, Here’s a couple of shots I took as we were leaving Sansepolcro…

Our hotel, aka Locanda del Giglio
Our hotel, aka Locanda del Giglio
...and a striking bit of much more recent architecture.
…and a striking bit of much more recent architecture. Nice, eh?

Fortunately, since it’s been so hot, we were glad to have a little overcast at the beginning of the ride. More pics from along the way…

Freshly turned hay, with church tower in background
For the Fergusons: freshly turned hay, with church tower in background
Cherries ripening on the tree
Cherries ripening on the tree
Mallory, the navigator, at work
Mallory, the navigator, at work
Poppies sprinkled into fields of grain
Can’t get enough of the red poppies sprinkled across fields of grain
Two-faced clock on church in Città di Castello
Two-faced clock on church in Città di Castello’s main square

Città di Castello is the home town of our Italian guide, Giovanni, so we sent him a selfie from the square to give him a smile.

Once again, the ride finished up with a fairly grueling climb (especially due to the heat), up to the hill town of Montone. Some photos of that last part of the ride…

A cute little bridge at the foot of the climb up to Montone
A cute little bridge at the foot of the climb up to Montone
Mallory attacking the switchbacks at the bottom
Mallory attacking the switchbacks just above the bridge
Giant cactus, near Montone
Giant cactus, approaching Montone
Cactus flowers
Cactus flowers

Once again, we found our hotel (which had a pool!) showered, rested up, then explored and had a lovely dinner out. I’ll close this post with a few more pics from our evening’s explorations (since, as you may have guessed, we have much better internet here in Assisi tonight). More about the ride from Montone to Assisi tomorrow, since we’ve got two nights here!

Medieval wall in Montone
I love these old stone battlement walls
More giant medieval walls to worry about!
This should give you a good sense of the climbs we’re doing!
“Hummingbird moth” on white petunias
Another lucky catch!
Stone buildings and swallows swarming
Swallows swarming stone structures
Glorious flowers against ancient stone walls at sunset
Glorious flowers against ancient stone walls at sunset